Tank Trials: Ultra Low Maintenance Tanks | BRStv Investigates

@BRS, I was thrown off by the selection of small daily water changes for a ULM softie tank, but as you pointed out, with the advancements in the aquarium technology it only makes perfect sense for those with a spot for large water storage containers. I also like that you pointed out the benefits of using Kalk, I have always used kalk but when it can't keep up with demand I switch to 2 part. I've never used a calcium reactor but might give it a try, in the future, on my current build.

Moving on, to address the ULM option for a clean up crew, I would keep hermits out of the choice of options. They will kill and eat the snails for their shells, requiring periodic replacement of snails. I have never liked the look of empty shells in the tank, so I don't like the option of leaving larger empty shells for the hermits. I love astrea snails but don't feel they are an option for a ULM tank because they do like to fall over from time to time and are unable to right themselves. What I would select for a clean up crew would be 1 trochus snail per 10 gallons 1 cerith snail per 10 gallons. I like conch snails also but don't know if they would serve a bare bottom tank well.

Now for ULM fish selection I would select some hardy fish. A reef tank is not a reef tank without a pair of clowns. With so many designer clowns available, there is an option for everyone's taste in appearance and budget. My next selection for fish is one that will set off many reefers but I am going to point it out none the less, tangs! They are some great additions to a reef tank, not only due to their beauty but they are also part of the clean up crew as they are great at picking at and eating any algae that attempts to take hold all day long. Lawnmower blennys are and also great at eating algae but I don't feel they work as well as tangs. For the small tank sizes of your ULM builds I would put 1 Kole tang in each.

SteadyC said:

@randyBRS looking forward to your episode on Red Sea trace elements with Kalk that Ryan mentioned

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Getting on it! Hopefully I'll have it in the bag this week.

For CuC and fish you have to get the 1 2 punch of a blenny (or 2). Chomping away all day at algae is great activity to watch, and my starry has adopted the role of sand sifter by munching on any algae growing there.

I will say to avoid hermits as well, the shell issue and lack of compatibility with snails is tough to deal with. Trochus snails, emereld crabs, and blennys should do the job. If you're looking for an outside option as well an urchin of some kind could possibly fit in.

JBKReef said:

For CuC and fish you have to get the 1 2 punch of a blenny (or 2). Chomping away all day at algae is great activity to watch, and my starry has adopted the role of sand sifter by munching on any algae growing there.

I will say to avoid hermits as well, the shell issue and lack of compatibility with snails is tough to deal with. Trochus snails, emereld crabs, and blennys should do the job. If you're looking for an outside option as well an urchin of some kind could possibly fit in.

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I feel the blennys would be a great option for the softie tanks but for LPS and SPS, I would not use them only because in the past I've had them and they have liked to perch on top of my corals and stressed them out. They always seemed to like my more expensive corals to perch on top of

randyBRS said:

Getting on it! Hopefully I'll have it in the bag this week.

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I see this episode has stirred up a lot...of interest. I just removed my filter compartment and am waiting on my H380 and plan on starting a dosing regimen (tired of kalk headaches) . Core 7 seems to not be realistic due to availability mostly, and cost is a factor as well. It seems that Brs could do an entirely different
series on ULM dosing or Methods of OTHERS.... AF, ATI, RS, &........ BRS w/trace elements ??? I would like to start and continue with a chosen method. BTW learning a lot from this and those joining in.

myths about bubble algae confirmed or busted. Like popping them causes more, and they don't need high nutrients to thrive

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Bubbles concentrate low nutrients outside the bubble, into high nutrients inside the bubble, over time. So they have a supply all the time to live from. But if nutrients outside stay low, the bubble will eventually go away.

For a clean up crew, my absolutel favorite snails are Trochus Snails... and they would do a phenominal job on the ULM 60gal cubes. They don’t flip easily, can right themselves when they do, and they do a great job at keeping algae in check.

For detritus, you can’t use Nassarius Snails here... I think a pair of Skunk Cleaner Shrimp would do very well. I’ve never actually done bare bottom... but I would think Hermits would still be OK without the sand, and I’m a huge fan of their ability to control the amount of buildup on rock work. Mine are always busy up there. I also like Emerald Crabs... let them do any heavy lifting before you even know it’s needed.

I’d definitely want a Kole or Tomini Tang for algae grazing... tank is a bit to small for A Foxface, which is my favorite grazer for sure... a Kole or Tomini Tang, however, will work like a lawn mower.

Clean up crew should probably consist of only Trochus and Astraea snails. Ceriths and Nassarius snails both prefer sand. Hermit crabs are a terrible idea as they'll eat snails IME. I also don't think they do much anyway.

Emerald crab might be okay.

Cleaner shrimps can work well. No peppermint though. If they don't get enough food, they turn for coral.

An urchin is also very hardy and easy IME. They can really help keep algae in check.

As far as fish...I would go with easy to care for and hardy fish. Firefish and a wrasse of some kind. IME blennies don't graze enough to worry about and tangs and dwarf angels are an absolute NO in a 2 foot tank. Not enough swimming room and will lead to possible issues.

One thing I think would be really cool is mollies converted to SW. They will attack the algae but I'm unsure of life expectancy in SW.

I think of one of the biggest "CUC" will be the bare bottom. It makes me seriously consider going BB on my new 120...

Thinking of good fish choices for a ULM reef tank I think of the following factors:
-Hardy (not disease prone)
-Easy to feed (can thrive on dry food from an auto-feeder ) and probably doesn't need more than 2 feedings a day.
-Peaceful (won't harm other fish, conspecifics or close relatives excluded)
-Reliably reef safe (taking an angelfish that decides to eat coral or a hawkfish that eats your shrimp out of a tank isn't very ULM)
-Doesn't get too big
-Helps the tank be even more ULM by eating pests

For a 60 bare bottom cube I think the following fish could be considered ULM:
-Cardinal fish
- the more peaceful clownfish
-firefish
-cleaner/ neon gobies
-Chromis
-Assessors & basslets like the chalk bass and royal gramma
-Most blennies
-pink streaked and possum wrasses, some flasher & fairy wrasses too (six lines are maybe too aggressive and most other wrasses need sand to sleep).

Of these fish, the wrasses & blennies are the most helpful in terms of controlling nudis, flatworms and algae respectively.

I think the big question about ULM fish is: will you run a strict quarantine regimen for the tank? QT has a learning curve, requires care, space, money, time, testing and dosing of medicines etc. Is QT really ULM? On the other hand, a tank of fish that keeps getting sick is definitely not ULM. If only there were more sources of professionally QTed fish!

randyBRS said:

Getting on it! Hopefully I'll have it in the bag this week.

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Thanks for taking this on! Just FYI, I found this site for calculating calcium contribution from Kalk, which is telling me (if accurate) the ppm of calcium added per my kalk solution. Then I calculate the math based on ppm of calcium added daily or weekly, to what Red Sea says of 1ml of Red Sea Colors per 20ppm of calcium uptake. Be interesting to see what you come up with also.

https://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/KalkContribution.php

SteadyC said:

Thanks for taking this on! Just FYI, I found this site for calculating calcium contribution from Kalk, which is telling me (if accurate) the ppm of calcium added per my kalk solution. Then I calculate the math based on ppm of calcium added daily or weekly, to what Red Sea says of 1ml of Red Sea Colors per 20ppm of calcium uptake. Be interesting to see what you come up with also.
https://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/KalkContribution.php

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Check out yesterday's video!

randyBRS said:

Check out yesterday's video!

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I watched the one when using with your 2-part, it was great, but it is based on ml of 2-part dosed. With Kalk, everyone's mixture is different, based on how many teaspoons added to X number of if gallons, so basing Kalk on ml added isn't doable, if I'm thinking about it correctly. So, I think we have to calculate how much calcium is added by ppm, based on our own mixture of kalk, not mls.

SteadyC said:

I watched the one when using with your 2-part, it was great, but it is based on ml of 2-part dosed. With Kalk, everyone's mixture is different, based on how many teaspoons added to X number of if gallons, so basing Kalk on ml added isn't doable, if I'm thinking about it correctly. So, I think we have to calculate how much calcium is added by ppm, based on our own mixture of kalk, not mls.

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Here's a sneak peak into where we get our Kalkwasser math, which will be based on a fully saturated solution.
http://reef.diesyst.com/chemcalc/chemcalc.html

What are your thoughts on the hiatt system for an ultra low maintenance tank? I used this system years ago, and really did nothing other than scrap the glass off once a week weather it needed it nor not, and clean a pre-filter (before the carbon). I am just getting back into the hobby now (been out for about 5 years). I don't have much time, or a lot of money, so I am really interested in this subject. I have been searching for more info on the hiatt system since it worked so well for me before, but it seems there are very few if any people using it now (or at least posting about it). So I am wondering why, or if other methods are just better, easier, or cheaper?

I almost forgot. The initial cycle for the hiatt system was also very fast and easy. Just add the bacteria then 5 minutes later add all your fish. The watter is a little cloudy for 24 hours, but all fish were just fine, and after 24 hours the cycle was complete.

ULM Tank Trials Ep-15: Livestock and Feeding for Ultra Low Maintenance | BRStv

Sure, there are ULM considerations when choosing the types of fish and CUC you add to your tank. Right?

Today Ryan discusses what you guys thought about ULM choices in your cleanup crew and fish as well as how food and feeding practices can be Ultra Low Maintenance. Thanks to the community and to Emmanuel Lopez; EngineeringAquariums from YouTube and @Tjm23slo @Ds04384 and @Pbh-reef !

This week's question:
-What's your thoughts on ULM corals? Are some less maintenance than others?

Any coral requiring spot feeding is not ULM. I will never consider any coral that can't be feed by "blast feeding" or that can't derive a majority of it's energy from photosythesis.

randyBRS said:

Here's a sneak peak into where we get our Kalkwasser math, which will be based on a fully saturated solution.
http://reef.diesyst.com/chemcalc/chemcalc.html

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How’s this coming? .

SteadyC said:

How’s this coming? .

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Next on the release list for Spotlights.

NPS are definitely not ULM. Corals which are hard to grow or grow too quickly and need to be propagated to maintain the tank’s aesthetic are likely going to add to the maintenance needed in the tank on a monthly basis. However, coral placement and proper planning can negate some maintenance that would otherwise need to be performed. Having area dedicated to a certain type of coral is the easiest way of avoiding the hassle of having to move corals around in the tank due to incompatibility.

sorry if i missed this... how would you implement the use of the neptune auto feeder while also using a mesh cover?